Autumn is eating time, cocooning , friends , and of course cooking
30 november 2012 - Amsterdam, Nederland
Autumn was in LCF the busiest time of the year it just flew by.The fantastic products. The game, the mushrooms , the pumpkins , the fish , root and special vegetables like Cavolo Nero, Jerusalem artichokes, truffles (now and again).
Last week I had lunch at Restaurant AS , really my favourite. Luuk Langedijk one of my ex chefs who married one of my other ex chefs my dear Tjallien, was busy in the kitchen with Cavol Nero and pheasant and beetroots. We had a delicious lunch and a few extra tastes too! I even left with a lovely sour dough bread from Ef, he gave the bread courses here the last few years. I just love to go there , it is near the Beatrix Park .
This made me want to cook again like boning out a pheasant . I also want to make my own bread again, as I always did at LCF
SO I Look forward to going to market tomorrow and cooking up something autumny. Now only for friends but I am happy with it for now. They too I hope
But first I go to the cinema Haut Cuisine and then diner afterwards.. What a life
Monday morning , the view from my table. I had a super weekend . Haute Cuisine was fun, based on a true story. The French President Mitterand took on a female chef as he wanted to eat the food his grandmother gave him, in his private kitchen apart from the rest of the formal diners. It was charming and light hearted, the lady chef wore blouses , had a truffle field at home in France. The male chefs resented her and eventually won. However her 2 years on the Rue St Fauberge where fun to watch.
When the president was put on a diet by the doctors he came to her kitchen and she fed him Truffles on toast with butter and a glass of bordeaux . Sublime
So I Saturday morning went to the Noordermarkt and bought a few small things , Annie had quails , which we had bought from van Meel the week before and I still had some vegetables.
I went straight too the mushroom stall my very favourite at this time of the year. I stood there next to a culinairy friend of mine Hilary Akkers who writes for the Financial Times, I felt I was in France . We both ended up buying a jewel, it was red and came out of an egg shaped form , The owner said "you must taste this once in your life " Me being English , half Irish have a warped sense of humour, So I said "will I die afterwards then """ great hilarity !! all around
P.S
I have now just learnt from Tom van Leeuwen ( a forager amongst other things )that it is known as Caesers and one of a very poisoness family Amanita
That plus some small cepes and I could not resist the brie with truffles-just a small piece !
Then on to the goat cheeses and the boeren stall from the school inear Lelystad YES they had Cavolo Nero plus a few pastinaki and some winter postelein . Then back to the bike. !I had managed to walk past the oysters one can buty and eat on the market ! Tempting. The night before , after the HauteCuisine I had eaten at Van de Kaart on the Prinsengracht near the Uitkijk. and they had given us an oyster. My friends say I always seem to get extras !! I DO .
Now to the kitchen
Roasted vegetables
1 pond red potatoes
1 celeriac, peeled
500g carrots , peeled
2 cloves garlic
olive oil
salt and pepper
cinnamon
1 tl fennel seeds
3 pieces of lemon rind
sea salt
Method
Cut the vegetables in large pieces of the same size. Blanch the vegetables briefly for 5 minutes. Place in a roasting tin add the olive oil and the seasonings. Toss well place in the oven for approximately 45 minutes with the meat , stir from time to time. Add a little stock if necessary. Season with ground salt before serving.
I don't always blanch them.
I used pastinaki, pumpkin, aubergine, heritage carrots
The quails
Where marianded in olive oil and rosemary
I filled them with a sage leaf and some cooked pearl barley with seasoning and herbs.
I had no bacon or caul , so I put a pricker in and raosted them in the oven without first browning, hence the light colur but at least they did not burst open .
I then roasted them for about 15 minutes and served them with the raosted vegetables . The juices which came of the quails I served seperatley
Here is a recipe I have made a few time (if you like livers) Quite substantial ! Can be made with Pigeon
Quail with a peppery sauce
Ingredients ( 10 persons)
1quail p.p.or any other fowl
salt and pepper
olive oil and butter for frying
Sauce
2 tbsp. olive oil
1 clove garlic
1 onion
salt and pepper
100g luganega of a pork sausage without skin and crumbled
sage
parsley
100g chicken livers
cinnamon
4 tbsp. red wine vinegar
1 tbsp. sugar
Method :
1. Grind the salt and pepper over the quails
2. Fry the quails in the butter and oil until golden brown. Allow to cool remove the breast and place with the non skin sides down on a greased and seasoned baking sheet to finish off later, fry the legs if used for a few minutes extra
Or:
3. Roast the quails in a preheated oven of 200°C in ± 8 minutes. Leave to rest.
4. Heat the olive oil in a pan,add the garlic, onion, a few tbsp water and allow to cook gently until the onions are soft. Add the crumbled sausage, the sage and the half of the parsley. Cook for a few minutes stirring well.
5. Add the chopped livers, the cinnamon and salt allow to simmer for a further 10 –15 minutes
6. Heat the vinegar in a small pan with the sugar , pour over the sausage mixture and add the parsley
7. Serve in a bowl with the pigeon
8. To serve reheat the quail breast in the oven for a few minutes or serve the quails whole on the plates. Serve with mushrooms if desired.
So now I am a week further got buik Griep not mushroom poisoning
I had thought to give you Efs recipe fopr flat bread
Flat Bread
· 15g Yeast
· 300g Fine-Ground Semolina
· 125g 45 Flour, also called Pizza Flour (if possible, use 00)
· 25g Rogge Bloem /Rye Flour
· 1 ½ tsp Salt
· 300ml Water
· 2 tbsp Olive Oil
· 75 ml Sourdough Starter, ( it can without this )
For Flat Bread
Preheat the oven to 250⁰C.
Leave your bread dough to rise for one hour. Divide the dough and form it into balls. Leave it to rise a second time; then roll it outvery thinly.
Bake it on a flat roasting surface. If you oven seems too hot, reduce the temperature to 225⁰C.
Take out of the oven brush with olive oil and sprinkle with Dukkah and extra salt if desired
Dukkah mediterenean spice mix.
100g sesame seeds
100g blanched almonds
50g coriander seeds
10g cumin seeds
1 teaspoon sea salt
½ teaspoon pepper
Turkish bread or Schiacciato (italian flat bread )
olive oil
1. Toast all the seeds and almonds together in a hot dry pan. Keep stirring until fragrant. Cool, then coarsely grind with the salt and pepper.
2. To serve, dip the bread into the olive oil and then into the dukkah.
Also nice served with roasted vegetables as a vegeterian meal.
Is also great sprinkled over cooked vegetables.
Risotto al Amarone
Risotto with red wine
Ingredients:
1 red onion
2 tbsp olive oil extra virgin
1 peperoncini rosso
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
350 g semi fine rice Vialone Nano, Carnaroli
1 bottle Amarone wine or full red wine such as Barolo
1 litre chicken stock
nutmeg
50 g + 100 g parmesan cheese
50 g butter
Method :
1. Heat the stock
2. Bring the wine to the boil and reduce slightly
3. Warm the olive oil in a casserole or pan with a thick bottom, add the red onion and allow to cook slowly until soft add the pepperoncini for the last few minutes
4. Turn up the heat and add the rice. Toast the rice, stirring all the time making sure that every grain is coated with the oil This will take a few minutes
5. Reduce the heat add half the wine a little at a time and allow to cook until all is absorbed, add half the stock flowed by the rest of the wine and the stock(only adding this when all is absorbed) . Continue in this way until the rice is cooked but still has a bite
6. This will take about 17 minutes
7. Add 50 grams of the grated parmesans cheese and a little freshly grated nutmeg .
8. Taste and add the nut of butter before serving the risotto should be creamy Serve with a piece of parmesan cheese which is then grate or cut at the table. ,
I have not made this for a long time but I can remember the taste !
Something fo a winters day.
Risotto uit de kruidentuin
Ingrediënten:
50g boter
1tbsp olijfolie
2 fijngesneden sjalotten
150g fijngesneden kool of Cavolo nero as I have just bought some
1tl zout
350g Aborio of Carnaroli rijst
1 ½ litres kippenbouillon
1 stuk parmezaanse kaas (korst) a poor mans crust never throw it away !
Zout en peper
50g boter
50 g geraspte parmezaanse kaas
Gehakte bladpeterselie
Bereiding:
1. Smelt de boter en olie in een pan met een dikke bodem, voeg de sjalotten toe en bak ze een paar minuten tot ze zacht zijn maar niet gekleurd, voeg de kool toe en laat een paar minuten koken
2. Doe de rijst in de pan en zet het vuur langzaam hoger, roer goed totdat iedere rijstkorrel is bedekt door de olie. Dit duurt een paar minuten en wordt het “toasten” van de rijst genoemd.
3. Verhit de bouillon en voeg deze beetje bij beetje toe, roer tot de bouillon volledig is opgenomen door de rijst en voeg de kaaskorst toe
4. Ga hiermee door tot de rijst na ongeveer 16 minuten gaar is. Neem een rijstkorrel tussen duim en wijsvinger en druk zodat je het midden van de rijstkorrel voelt. Als je drie kleine puntjes in de korrel voelt, is de rijst klaar.
5. Voeg als laatste een klontje boter en kaas toe en laat het geheel een paar minuten staan.
6. Strooi op het laatste moment wat gehakte peterselie over de risotto
Serve with sauted mushrooms or the Cepes in the picture like I did for Sunday lunch for a friend of mine Larry last weekend. He even helped me rake up the leaves .
Henk
Liefs Nadine